It has been said to many times, "I had to put aluminum rims on the stock one went/were bad". In my opinion installing aluminum rims is not the only fix, you can in most cases find online a new axle set for half the cost of the upgraded rims, and in most cases you can fix the bad rim/rims, if these options fail then yes the upgrade rims are the way to go.
Well I would like to see if I can help out in the FIX THE RIM area, first the most rare of rim failure, "A HUB THAT BROKE OUT" everyone knows I have many cars and this has never happend to me, I have heard of it but again never to me, about 8 months ago THE HAMMER tells me of his new FLY F-40 and how week the rims are and how one wheel the hub just broke out, he showed me the rim and the way the rim is made it is a very weak design. Shocked I know, from FLY, a bad rim, sounds made-up, but true:D. So here I am with Allen just messing around and I am using my Fly F-40 and yes you got it the rim just comes off in a turn, the hub and rotor are still on the car and the wheel failed just as HAMMERS. After alot of internet searching I came up dry with the search a new rim set, So repair is the only option to keep the car stock, it would have to be about two years ago I was tired of my fly rims and the hub cracking, so I figured out how to fix that on almost any rim and the whole hub breaking out is a new one, but using my old fix, but going about it in a new way I was able to repair the F-40 rim, and here are both ways, one for hub repair and one for rim rim repair.

As you can see the whole hub has broke free from the rim

here is a picture of the hub with the plastic rotor, the large piece you see around it is .030 plastic , I cut a square and made a hole in the center or close to it, then glued it on the hub as you see in the photo.

here is a side view

I then installed the hub and plastic on the car and trued it down with a file as I ran the motor on a power supply, just as you would true a rim down. I trued the plastic down to the exact I.D of the rim, for this I used a Dial Caliper. once this was done the rim was placed on the new hub asembly and turned to find where it was originaly,(when something breaks it almost always has a place where it fits back in) once that spot was found I made a small reference marker with the tip of an exacto knife, the wheel was then removed and a small amout of med C.A was put on the hub where it broke free(Remember only a small amount so if things go bad it can be removed without making things worse) in a few seconds the glue set and I was able to turn the axle and see if the rim was running true to the eye, it was so i then was very careful to remove the rim and then was able to glue around the new piece so it would then be attached to the inside of the rim, I then added a bit of thin C.A to the original break point so it would be attached well.

This is the front of the wheel after the repair

The wheel after the repair on the inside view

The car after repair, I would think after this is done the wheel would have to be retrued, however in this case i was lucky, after the repair I checked for tire true and it was dead on. I am pleased with the turn out on this repair, the car remains stock and a few cents of glue and plastic kept the car running. (in the next segment I show how to repair a cracked hub, I also did this step to the other rim on the F-40 as a preventative measure)